Seeds of Tradition: Bringing Chilacayota to Bay Area Tables

The San Mateo County coast is famous for its seasonal squash. Tourists and locals alike flock to Half Moon Bay to soak in its bright orange fields, fall festivals, and giant gourds worthy of blue ribbons. It even holds the title of Pumpkin Capital of the World. But just up Highway 1, another member of the squash family is claiming its place in the coastal spotlight. Whether you know it as chilacayota, shark fin melon, or figleaf gourd, this white-striped green variety is a nutritional force to be reckoned with. With roots tracing back to Oaxaca and a flavor that shifts from savory to sweet as it matures, its culinary versatility is beyond compare. And thanks to Brisa Ranch—POST’s latest tenant—it’s making its way to local kitchens year-round.

MEET BRISA RANCH

Here at POST, we’ve been delighted to welcome these farmers to our property atop Cloverdale Bluffs. The long-fallow property needs some TLC, so the team is currently putting in plenty of tractor hours to rejuvenate the soil before they plant cover crops. In the meantime, their operation spans three other properties totaling about 40 acres. It’s an inspiring story. What began as a three-person side hustle on a half-acre of land has flourished into quite a robust undertaking. In fact, they’re currently building a food hub that distributes fresh fruits and veggies to institutions like food banks. This involves aggregating produce from over twenty small farms up and down the coast!

We also love Brisa Ranch’s tried-and-true commitment to represent the traditions and tastes of the diverse communities in the Bay Area. In fact, they have intentionally included an array of culturally relevant crops in their production. Alongside chilacayota, they grow bokchoy, collards, cilantro, and more. These crops reconnect families with the flavors of their heritage while introducing others to new tastes and culinary experiences. It’s a model that celebrates agricultural diversity and cultural belonging, reminding us that local food can be as inclusive as it is sustainable.

More about Brisa Ranch

A CULTURAL CROP 35 YEARS IN THE MAKING

Over at Cascade Ranch, a Pie Ranch-managed property where Brisa grows crops, Cristóbal grins amid knee-high vines dotted with orange-yellow blossoms. “This is almost one acre of chilacayota squash,” he beams. “It’s one of the hundreds of types of squash grown in Mexico. It’s a special squash and a cultural crop that I don’t want to lose.”

For Cristóbal, this field represents 35 years of care and continuity. In April 1990, he brought a handful of glossy black chilacayota seeds from Oaxaca to California, and he’s saved seeds from each harvest ever since. “That first Oaxacan squash,” he jokes, “is the great-grandmother of today’s crop.”

Back then, with limited access to land, Cristóbal planted small patches wherever he could, sharing his modest yields with friends and neighbors. Families from Mexico, El Salvador, and Guatemala were thrilled to taste a bit of home. Even folks who never heard of the gourd took to chilacayota quickly, especially when Cristóbal sent them off with recipes.

A WELL-ROUNDED GOURD

Chilacayota’s appeal lies partly in its versatility. When young, the squash’s mild flesh is great raw in a salad; sautéed with onions, tomatoes, or basil; or added to bean stew. When mature, it transforms into sweet treats, like crystallized candy or a warming drink made with piloncillo. Even the seeds are delicious when roasted. Chilacayota is remarkably resilient, thriving in hot or cool weather, wet or dry soil, sprawling across the ground or climbing up fences and trees. Fun fact: because it can grow year-round in a wide range of conditions—from coastal soils to dry inland areas—chilacayota also contributes to climate resilience, helping create more diverse and adaptable agricultural systems.

SPOTLIGHT ON SEED SAVING

Cristóbal credits his great-grandfather for teaching him the art of seed saving, a practice he calls essential for keeping rare crops alive. He says it helps build an heirloom supply of seeds you can’t find in most stores. Plus, he adds, “[the process] gives farmers time to reflect after harvest, to prepare for what comes next.”

To start, Cristóbal selects a fully cured squash with hard skin. Each one holds about 400 seeds, which he washes, dries, and stores in a glass jar in the dark. He pokes a tiny hole in the jar’s lid to let moisture escape. The result is a living legacy, passed down season by season, generation by generation.

POLLINATOR’S PARADISE

In addition to its cultural significance, chilacayota is an essential plant for pollinators – that is, bees, butterflies, and other insects who help plants reproduce. Its large yellow flowers are abundant with nectar and pollen, providing a valuable food source into late summer, well after many other plants have stopped blooming. Specialist squash bees, along with honeybees and bumblebees, are frequent visitors to the blooms, transferring fruit-yielding pollen between flowers. By supporting these pollinators, chilacayota helps maintain biodiversity in surrounding ecosystems, benefiting both crops and wild plants.

THE COAST WITH THE MOST

The quiet rise of chilacayota in Pescadero reminds us that California’s coast nurtures communities in more ways than one. Each seed Cristóbal saves carries the memory of Oaxaca, the hum of bees, and the promise of a food system rooted in culture and care. And, with a bit of curiosity, you might find this rare gourd on your own plate before long. Find it this autumn at Chavez Supermarkets or Second Harvest Food Bank.